Pseudofolliculitis
barbae (razor bumps) is a common condition of the beard area occurring
in up to 60% African American men and other people with curly hair.
The problem results when highly curved hairs grow back into the skin
causing inflammation and a foreign body reaction. Over time, this can
cause keloidal scarring which looks like hard bumps of the beard area
and neck. Shaving that sharpens the ends of the hairs like a spear
causes it. The hairs then curve back into the skin causing
pseudofolliculitis barbae.
A 100% effective treatment is to let the beard grow. Once the hairs
get to be a certain length they will not grow back into the skin. For
most cases, totally avoid shaving for 3 to 4 weeks until all lesions
have subsided, while applying a mild prescription cortisone cream to
the involved skin each morning. Shaving every other day, rather than
daily, will improve pseudo-folliculitis barbae. If you must use a
blade, water soften the beard first with a hot, wet wash cloth for 5
minutes. A preshave solution (Hydroglyde from Moore skin care
1-800-745-9422) helps soften the hairs. Then use lubricating shaving
gel (Edge, Aveeno), a prescription medicated shaving foam (benzashave
by Dermik) or British shaving oil and use the Aveeno PFB Bump Fighter
Razor or the Flicker razor. Shave with the grain of the beard and do
not stretch the skin. Use only one stroke over each area of the beard.
Use of an electric shaver may also help the condition because it
does not cut as close as blades do. Use the electric razor on high
setting to avoid close shaving and prepare beard with electric razor
pre-shave. Do not stretch skin while shaving and shave with the grain
of beard growth. Avoid multiple repetition of strokes in the same
area. Do not press razor head hard against the skin. Shave every other
day. Better still is a barber's clipper (with clipping guard) to
prevent shaving closer than 1mm cut of whisker hair
Some doctors recommend chemical "shaving" with products
such as Magic Shave, Surgex shaving powder, Nair or Neet (these are
brands of Barium sulfide or Calcium thioglycolate depilatories - very
mild to strong). These dissolve the hairs but can cause chemical burns
on facial skin. It should be left on for less time than the package
recommends until you see how your skin reacts to it.
Most patients "cannot tolerate" these because they don't
wait for their skin to clear before using them as directed. PFB-involved
skin is not "normal," and it should be expected to be
more-easily irritated than normal skin. These depilatories should be
tried only once the skin is bump free. Use only every 48-72 hours. Use
mildest form that works. Apply to small areas at a time (1/4 - 1/2 of
the face) and start removal no later than 3 minutes (for Barium
sulfide types) or 5 minutes (for calcium thioglycolate types) after
application. Remove with spatula, butter knife, tongue blade, or other
blunt straight edge. Use short, rapid strokes against the direction of
hair growth. Keep shaving instrument moist but wiped clean. If some
hairs remain, repeat after 30-60 seconds. Wait if within 3 minutes of
original application. Rapid and thorough rinsing should be done two or
three times with soap and water. Neutralize depilatory with a diluted
vinegar solution (1 tablespoon per pint of water) then rinse again
thoroughly with tap water.
Electrolysis and laser hair removal should be considered when all
else fails, but these are expensive and take repeated visits. There is
a very small risk of scarring. The SoftLight Laser Hair Removal System
is the most effective in treating this problem. Since this Laser Hair
Removal System targets the "specialized carbon lotion," it
is excellent for treating all skin types and colors. Unlike other
lasers, it doesn't target the melanin in the skin or hair. A few
insurance companies will cover some or all of the cost.
Medications are also prescribed to speed healing of the skin.
Glycolic acid lotion 8% is effective (Alpha-hydrox, Neo-Strata,
others). Prescription antibiotic gels (Benzamycin, Cleocin-T) or oral
antibiotics are also used. Retin-A is a potent treatment that helps
even out any scarring after a few months. It is added as a nightly
application of Retin-A Cream 0.05 - 0.1% to the beard skin while beard
is growing out. Use as tolerated, as it is somewhat irritating.
This describes the treatment options. Your individual prescription
will be developed specifically for you and may differ somewhat from
those described here.